MAORI FASHION

Editor: Anthony Hoete

With the passage of time Maori costume has undergone several changes. The arrival of missionaries influenced the most significant change in traditional women's clothing, mostly for the sake of modesty and decorum as they saw it - the introduction of the pari for women. Over the last hundred years or so more subtle changes have gradually been wrought. Around the time of Cook's arrival (1769) women wore a maro, a triangular shaped garment worn exactly like an apron. By the end of the 19th century the maro had gradually evolved into a kilt- or rapaki-like garment similar to the piupiu we know today but also included a cloak-like woven inner lining. That inner panel gradually became just a waistband and a much lighter weight cotton fabric underskirt called a panekoti (derived from the english word "petticoat") appeared. In general terms, women's garments have remained relatively unchanged since then. In modern times, the underskirt is usually red or black in colour, and attached to either the pari or piupiu in women's costume. It should correctly be the same length as the piupiu although there is a trend towards a longer underskirt with a printed design visible on the extention below the bottom of the piupiu. At some ceremonial events and occasions as well as cultural presentations, the piupiu may even be seen worn in a manner similar to a cloak, over regular street clothes (usually black dresses for women).